Holding a Spring-Piston or Gas Ram Air Gun.

Firstly NEVER FIGHT A SPRING-PISTON WEAPON, it will win every time.

For accurate shooting you have to HOLD IT SOFTLY.
You must let the rifle recoil in it’s own way.
To restrict it will cause you to miss.
Imagine it as a tuning fork, it needs to ring not be dampened by heavy handling.

Let the rifle rest ON your supporting hand. OPEN PALM.
Don’t grasp the stock with your fingers. You can cup your fingers round the fore stock BUT DON’T GRIP!

Don’t EVER change the position of your hand along the fore stock.
This position affects how the rifle ‘rings’ or recoils.

NEVER rest your air rifle fore end directly on sandbags or a support as your groups will suffer.

This also applies to those who use a mono, bi, or tripod.
Slings should only be used for carrying, never for support.
You can lay your wrist or forearm on a rest if you like.
Just try to rest your forearm / wrist on the SAME PLACE EVERY TIME.

Only TOUCH your shoulder lightly with the rifle’s butt pad and don’t try to pull it back hard into your shoulder. It’s OK to ‘snuggle in’ but don’t smother it.

A note on clothing.
Different clothing will affect the ‘ringing’ of the weapon.
Try and wear the same outer clothing the whole time i.e. your favorite camo jacket.

Rest your cheek LIGHTLY on the comb of the stock.
Don’t mash your face onto the stock.
Put your cheek on the SAME place on the comb EVERY TIME!

All the above is designed to let the rifle recoil as naturally as possible.
Failure to do so will result in poor shooting.

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A few notes on Trigger Control.
Curl your fingers round the neck of the stock using the lightest grip you can. The trigger finger is all you want to move. Everything else is purely to help control the jittery effect your body imparts on the weapon.

With shotguns you pull or ‘slap’ the trigger. (Spray and pray)
That’s because shot gunning is all about timing a shot release on a moving target, not accuracy.
Airguns and firearms all call for you to squeeze the trigger.

Control is everything because you have to keep the weapon in line with the target fighting it’s weight and your body tremor which is present in all humans.
I learnt a simple acronym when being taught to shoot, B.R.A.S.S

It stands for Breathing, Relax, Aim, Stop, Squeeze.

Breathing
Stop breathing for during the natural pause between inhalation and exhalation. The natural pause between breaths is typically 2-3 seconds. You should not extend that past 8 seconds.
This is when you fire I.e. when the diaphragm and breathing muscles are relaxed.
After 8 seconds, stop the release, relax, and try again.

Relax
Your position should be relaxed and the weapon NATURALLY aligned with the target i.e. you do not need to push the sights to align with the target. This applies to any weapon but especially a spring-piston rifle as to push or pull one will definitely affect the way it recoils.

Aiming
Make sure you are aiming correctly i.e. the correct sight pattern for the targets range, and elevation. (I’m thinking MIL DOT aim off here).

Stop
You are in the 8 second window. If all is in order i.e. Breathing, Relaxation, and Aiming you can proceed to release the shot.
BUT, IF ANYTHING IS INCORRECT, THIS IS WHEN TO STOP, RELAX, AND START AGAIN
Releasing the Shot

Squeeze
There are two ways of squeezing the trigger and releasing the shot.

Uninterrupted Trigger Control.
Smooth is the term that comes to mind.
Take up the first pressure on the trigger and when the sights are in line and are steady on the target, increase the pressure to the trigger at a gentle rate until the weapon fires.
No stopping, pauses, snatching, a constant squeeze.

Interrupted Trigger Control
Basically whenever you can’t settle on a target.
Think windy conditions, poor support or standing.
In short you release when the target comes onto the sights.
Then, when it does, you pull the trigger until the shot breaks.

Here you still don’t force the weapon on target, the rifle will be swaying the whole time. When the rifle starts to sway towards the target, second trigger pressure is applied and you release the shot as the sights align.

This is a really poor state to be in. Over distance, a waving about air weapon is actually being subtly over controlled. It’s human nature. Gun moves off target, you sub consciously try and re-align it. It takes a lot of training to get out of this habit.

My personal advice? Always shoot from a supported position.
Lying down is best, sitting second, kneeling takes a lot of practice, and standing. . . . why?
Same as shooting at a moving target.
Leave that imprecise way of killing to the “spray and prey brigade” aka shot gunners.
Why shoot at a moving target when you have the ability to precisely place a shot into the brain. One shot, one kill.

Follow Through
Always stay in the aim when and after the shot has been released. This will prevent you relaxing your grip as you release thus the weapon will remain still and on target. Too many air gunners immediately relax on releasing the shot.
IMMEDIATELY is the key word here.
The brain senses the rifle go off, immediately the tensed up body tries to relax from the control you have been applying over the last 8 seconds. Result?
The pellet is still sliding up the barrel and you’re now off target.
Your grip has changed subtly so the air gun doesn’t “ring” or recoil the same way.
Everything goes to pot and all because your brain said “Glad that’s over with”.
The follow through is something you have to train yourself to do.

With a spring-piston or gas ram weapon, it’s positively vital.

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A few other notes applicable to airgun shooting.

Effective range.
Shoot to a 1″ (one inch) of accuracy.
The range that you can consistently hit within a one inch circle.
The safe range for me to do that EVERY TIME is 50 yards.

Power, i.e. how hard do you need to hit something to kill it.
The UK limit for unlicensed air weapons is only 12ft-lbs of power.
0.22 pellets weigh anything between 12 and 30 grains and have ballistic coefficients between 0.01 and 0.04
To kill a rabbit you need a minimum of 5 ft-lbs, and a bird 3 ft-lbs.
Using a propriety software program i.e. Chairgun 3, the average range to achieve 5 ft-lbs is:-
35 yards for those with a ballistic coefficient of 0.01,
75 yards for those with a ballistic coefficient of 0.04

Windage. The effect of wind on a pellet.
For the purposes of this, I’m using my preferred pellet
Bisley Magnum, 0.22, BC 0.031, 21 grains, air rifle 12 ft-lbs.
This table is based on wind from 90 degrees to you.

Yards	10mph	5mph	1mph
20	0.75	0.38	0.2
30	1.7	0.87	0.2
40	3.1	1.56	0.3
50	4.9	2.47	0.5
60	7.2	3.6	0.7
70	9.9	0.96	1

Wind From
30 degrees 50% strength
60 degrees 87% strength
90 degrees 90% strength

Don’t forget as the range doubles, the drift quadruples (ish).

Wind Strength

Wind Speed	Indication
1 to 3	Barely felt on face. May see drifting smoke.
3 to 5	Felt lightly on face. Leaves rustle.
5 to 8	Felt on face. Leaves rustle. Twigs move.
8 to 12	Raises dust and loose paper.
12 to 15	Small branches move. Bushes sway.
15 to 20	Small trees/bushes in motion. Dust clouds form.
20 to 25	Large trees sway. Wind whistles. Spray on water.

Slope Dope (up & down a slope)

Angle	Range Multiplier
15	0.97
30	0.87
45	0.71
60	0.5
75	0.26

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How is all this applicable to firearms or PCP weapons?
Don’t forget whilst spring power weapons can be tuned up to 30ft-lbs, PCP can happily be tuned to exceed 50 ft-lbs. Firearms speak for themselves.

The basic marksmanship principles are the same.
Holding and BRASS, but supported is permitted i.e. sandbags, mono / bi or tri-pods and slings.
As for holding on a bit tighter?
Good idea with high recoil weapons. A smack in the shoulder from a decent full bore firearm (.308 or greater) will probably not make your day.
Just one thing, follow through remains the same even for semi, burst, and full auto weapons and that is only perfected through practice.

Apologies for the disruption

Darn it!
I restored the blog from a back up and that is why every article has lost it’s formatting.
Double spacing everywhere, tables not correctly restored, it’s a mess!!!!!!!!
I’ll be working though everything to try and restore it so bear with me please.

Thoughts on Rioting

Rioting will happen in the UK again.

Slow to rile, the UK sheeple population is being pushed by every increasing levels of government oppression and 2012 is when all the draconian changes to our life are due to happen.

It won’t be like the minor events of 2011 either.
This time it will be serious as the convicted of 2011 will have served their time in gladiator school and come out determined to exact revenge.

Add to that a normally passive population and sheer numbers will overwhelm the authorities.

So here is some basic thoughts on self protection.

Forget being a hero.
Who will look after your family if you are maimed or killed?
Worried about your property? It can be replaced, you and your own can’t.

Stay calm and keep your emotions in check.
It’s impossible to think clearly if you are angry, emotional, or just scared.

Gather Intelligence any way you can.
Most riots and demonstrations don’t just happen.
There is a build up to them, a reason.
It might be quick i.e. the killing of a civilian by the police (again) or a long term build up like the current economic troubles the country is experiencing.
Currently the level of protest is low with unions organizing low level one day picnic events.

This could change quickly like the poll tax riots of 1989.
Listen to broadcast radio and TV, loudspeakers, here-say, pub talk, rumours, posters, social media, PMR, CB, ham radio equipment, all intelligence is worth collecting.

Don’t Go to Places You Know Are Going to Be Trouble.
Obviously unless you are going to take part in a rally or demonstration, keep away.It could be a seemingly peaceful event that gets hijacked by professional agitators or disrupted by heavy handed police action.

Get Inside.
When it all kicks off, you need to get inside, BUT you need to plan.
Keep doors and windows closed and locked.
Assume and plan for forced entry and broken windows.
Equip for home invasion and arson.
If your building is targeted and entered, escape and evade.
If you can hide all your valuables as most home insurances have a little clause inside that means the Bar*t*rds won’t pay out in the case of civil unrest.
Treat it as a bug out BUT understand if you go into the open with a BOB on your back, you are so very vulnerable.

If caught outside, stay away from areas where people are gathering.
Keep away from walls, fences or barricades, and anywhere where people are bottle-necked.
Avoid public transport, escalators, lifts, and elevated walkways or bridges.
Never enter an area without having at least two exits planned.

The chances are your mobile and other media will fail.
The UK police are going to great lengths to get the communications infrastructure turned off at times of crisis. If you haven’t sorted out hand held communications, do so now. Make sure all your family know how to use them. There is a danger though. If the police see you talking on a radio, they could seize that radio. If rioters see it, you could be taken as a police informer. ALWAYS THINK COVERT.
Your ability to talk to your family is vital as on the streets you will be able to track possible trouble and they at home will be able to keep tabs on you.

If you get caught up in a riot.
I’m talking a situation where you aren’t involved but a riot invades the area you are in.
You should carry round a COVERT EDC (every day carry).
It should carry at an absolute minimum of :-
Safety glasses, ear plugs, and face masks.
A pair of tight fitting swimming goggles.
Handheld communications
Cash to get you home, water, energy foods.
CS gas antidote (5% Bicarbonate of soda in water in an eyewash bottle), basic first aid kit, and a space blanket.

Women should wear Pads not tampons in case of injury or incarceration.
This eliminates the danger of toxic shock syndrome.

If you are asthmatic, your inhaler and prescription medicines.

Note:- Tell your companions if you have health problem (especially breathing problems). 

Think GRAY MAN persona PLUS wear a bump hat.
Try to blend in but do not wear clothing that could be interpreted as military or police wear.
Wear clothes that minimize the amount of exposed skin.
Wear a shemagh to cover your face in an emergency.
COVERTLY wear shin and knee protection and dress in stout clothing and footwear. 

Being caught in a car or vehicle in a riot is potentially dangerous.
Understand that your vehicle may be destroyed.
Have NO personal stuff in the car especially your name or address.
No valuables on show like GPS, phone clips, etc.
Treat your car as never coming back.
If you’re caught up in a car, stay calm.
If you can safely drive or back away, do so.
Calmly, no horn, gently, don’t draw attention to yourself.
Be careful not to push through a crowd.
Don’t drive towards police lines.
Don’t stop the car though.
Keep doors and windows closed.
If you are forced to stop, put the car between you and the rioters.
Disembark, lock up, and walk away, apparently empty handed.

Caught up in Riot
Survey the area and decide at least 2 emergency exits
Stay on the sidelines and back away slowly.
Always stay close to your escape route.

Walk, never run.
Don’t walk against the crowd, walk in the same direction but follow a diagonal path between pockets of people towards your chosen exit.
Keep moving away from the riot.
Travel in a group if possible. A lone person is vulnerable.

Watch your footing.
Make yourself aware of the ground you are standing on.
Stay away from barriers, fences, stairs, or walls, in case a crush happens.
Don’t hang onto lamp posts, if the crowd is sweeping you along, walk with it.
YOUR PRIORITY IS TO KEEP YOUR FEET.
Once you are on the ground, your chances of survival have reduced dramatically. If downed, curl up in a ball and protect your head.

When in doubt, join in.
Cover your face though. CCTV and police Intel gathering may use your face to prosecute you even if you’ve done nothing wrong.
Avoid confrontation with everyone.
If everyone is yelling, yell too.
Just don’t get involved with violence or looting.
Remember if you stand alone, you may become regarded as a police informer especially if you start to use a radio or look “equipped”.

Don’t try to get arrested though.
The police will happily prosecute you and you don’t want jail time for doing nothing.

Why being Shy may kill you

Insects carry disease and you need to check your whole body at least once a day for bugs. More if you are in a known infected area.
In a time of disaster, you need to be thinking about typhus, plague, and other flea and tick borne nasties.

Survival is not a time to act ‘coy’ or to be shy. It’s better if you have a companion and check each other.

Ingestion of bad stuff is bad enough (worms, water parasites, bacteria, etc.) but dirt attracts common body feeders like Bed bugs, Body lice, Hair louse, crabs, and Scabies mites.All guaranteed to make your life a little bit more like hell and open you up to secondary infections.

Here is a list of common insects and the infections they carry.

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Ticks
Preventive measures against infection include the following:

Wearing appropriate clothing.
REGULAR careful inspection of skin.
If ticks are found, FAST effective removal of the tick.
When removing theses things don’t mess about with Vaseline, crushing them, or even cigarettes.
Use a tick hook or a pair of tweezers.

Your aim is not to crush but to grip as near to the skin as possible, twisting the tick off complete with the “pincers” it is hanging on with.
Once off you can do the crush, burn, or hit it with the hammer bit.
Then disinfect the wound site.
Be cautious of red swellings or flu-like symptoms. GET MEDICAL HELP.

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Body Lice
Firstly these are not the same as hair lice.
Dirty Unsanitary conditions, not washing yourself or your clothing, all adds to your chance of getting infected.
These nasty little things willing invade the “great unwashed” and unfortunately those who come in contact with them.
They’re blood suckers that lay their eggs in the seams of your clothing (or sleeping bags).
Eggs are white or yellowish like tiny grains of rice.
When hatched (1 week or so), they start to bite.
Full sized they are 2-4 mm long, greyish-white 6 legs.
A lice bite itches. Intensely.
That makes you scratch, that opens the skin, and secondary infections get in.
The most worrying one is Typhus but you opening the skin (especially with dirty hands) can let all sorts of other bugs in from Tetanus upwards.

How to prevent and deal with them ( A three pronged attack).
1. Keep away from the infected and dirty places.
On the road that’s hard. Isolation is best.
Communes or shared accommodation need to be avoided especially the worn out comfy settee.
That’s difficult when “no fixed abode” because like-minded people gather and it only takes one less careful than you are to transmit the bugs.

2. Keep clean.
Not only you the person but your clothing and bedding.
Bugs don’t like hot washes, hate tumble dryers, and fresh air / sunlight.
CDC reckon that leaving the clothes unwashed, but unworn for a full week, also results in the death of lice and eggs.

3. Keep them away.
I put down a 7 x 8 foot plastic sheet before setting up.
Although it sometimes added to condensation, it’s a formidable barrier to bugs together with a light dusting of bug powder.
I carry a simple shaker bottle of anti crawling insect powder and dust round where I put my bedding.
Probably not good for you breathing in 0.5% w/w Permethrin the whole night but it works for me.

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Fleas
Black death aka plague aka Y pestis springs to mind.
Rickettsia, Typhus, and Lyme Disease are also a worry.

Cleanliness is vital round where you are staying.
Again I use my plastic sheet and my crawling insect “sprinkle dust”.
It only takes a second for one of these little beauties to jump on you and rather like a mosquito, one bite is enough.

Cover up well preferably in non-woolly outside garb.
They don’t like things they cannot cling to.
If you have a dog, protect the dog too.
Two reasons, firstly to protect you, secondly the dog.
There is little you can do to isolate yourself from these bugs.

In the open, if you know an area is infected, STAY AWAY.
That’s really the only advice I can offer.

If you are shooting rats, squirrel, or other warm-blooded mammals, the chances are they will be carrying fleas.
That’s why I always wear gloves when handling carcasses and only use tongs when dealing with “RAT” type things.
Don’t forget though, nothing to do with fleas, but animal urine carries LEPTOSPIROSIS.

This infection is commonly transmitted to humans by allowing water that has been contaminated by animal urine to come in contact with unhealed breaks in the skin, the eyes, or with the mucous membranes.

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Head Lice (nits)
These things are so difficult to guard against.
If your child goes to school, they’re almost guaranteed to catch a dose.
It’s nothing to do with cleanliness either.
The dirty and clean suffer the same.
Chemicals are becoming less effective.
Malathion works for now but don’t smoke when using it, as its flammable.
Permethrin products are now becoming less effective due to lice resistance.
However, more natural methods are proving to be popular as well as being very effective.

Essential oil shampoos work. There are plenty to choose from.
Personally when I’ve had a dose of nits, I nuke them with a OTC shampoo first then use essential oils to stop instant reinfection.
The time proven use of a nit comb picks up the hatched lice as it is combed through the hair.
This is best done on wet hair with a dose of conditioner.
Rubbing the scalp irritates the adult lice, making them move and the conditioner makes the hair too slippery for the lice to grip and move easily.

Kerosene treatment works but on a sensitive scalp it feels like acid! (Personal experience)
Go outside, wear old clothing, soak your hair in kerosene and read something for an hour.
Wash it out. Hasn’t failed me yet. DO NOT USE with babies or very young children.
( In case you don’t know, kerosene aka paraffin is flammable )
NEED I SAY “DON’T SMOKE”, NO NAKED LIGHTS, ETC.

The cycle of these nasty critters is somewhere round three weeks.
That’s a long time and loads of little eggs. It takes time to clear an infestation.
Just as you think it’s all gone, in come the kids and it all starts again.
Don’t think that braiding your hair keeps them out. It helps but isn’t 100% nit proof.
As for bedding and clothing?
Hot wash, hot dry as with all these creatures works.

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Scabies
It’s a rash, itches like mad so you’ll scratch and thus open the skin to secondary infections.
It’s contagious, and it’s caused by a tiny mite. 1/3mm across.
It burrows under the skin and the main reaction is from it’s “POO”.

It’s been associated with sex but is nothing to do with the act, just the close body contact.
Some agencies even call it an Sexually Transmitted Disease (STD). Daft that one!

Prevention?
Keep away from the infected. Don’t share clothing or bedding.
Wash all bedding in a hot wash and use a hot dryer.
It’s unlikely there are a lot of scabies mites on a body so nuking the whole house with an insecticide may be a little excessive.

Cure?
A Permethrin cream rubbed all over the body, left soaking in all night, and washed off the next morning. Leave for a week and repeat.
There are some that say swimming in salt water kills the mites too.

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Bed Bugs.
They get into your bedding in all sorts of ways.
Mainly from others, pets, rucksacks that have brushed up against egg infested things, to being carried about by furry critters.
Infestations are rife throughout the world and they are known as the “hotel bug” with good reason.
Blood feeders they aren’t so friendly as body lice and can remain alive for months without food i.e. you.
Again the thing to worry about is secondary infections. Treat all bites with antibiotic cream.
Try not to scratch (which is virtually impossible).
You keeping clean isn’t going to help here, it’s your bedding you’ve got to watch out for.

Visually they are 4-5 mm, pale to brown.
Look like little cockroaches BUT here’s a rub, the cockroach loves to eat them. They have a sweet musty smell and you’ll see blood coloured ‘waste’ on the sheets.
They don’t like hot washes so your bedding needs to be washer proof.
They also don’t like tumble dryers so again, your stuff needs to be shrink proof.
Vacuum your bedding. (Bit difficult in the field) is the traditional advice.
Turn out your bedding everyday and hang it to air. Sunlight they HATE.

Again, I used to dust the inverted bag with roach power whilst it aired and after a little shake, I would pack the bag away.

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Crab louse.
Usually associated with sexual activity, it is not the bottom line though.
Shared towels, clothing, beds or storage can all harbour them.
Hot bunking is notorious for cross infecting even the cleanest of people.
Good news for us dog owners, they don’t carry them.

TPTB say that you can’t catch them from toilet seats. (They obviously haven’t used public toilets lately)
Like all government advice, it’s based on a nice regularly cleaned toilet where nothing can cling to surfaces not some filthy loo in a public place. If there are dark little objects on or under the loo seat?
I’d think twice before “squatting your bot”.
They don’t carry disease but as always the itching makes you scratch and that lets in secondary infections.

They are 1-2 mm long, dark brown to black “crab like” in appearance.
They say that when they appear on the eye lashes, you’re pretty well covered in them.
Treat yourself first, put clean clothing on, and wash EVERYTHING.
Hot wash and a hot tumble dryer is best.
If you can’t launder stuff, seal it in a bag for at least two weeks.
(I have no proof this works though, just what I’ve read off the CDC site).

Lice killer lotions containing 1% permethrin or a mousse containing pyrethrins and piperonyl butoxide can be used. The dead bodies will probably stick to your hair so you’ll need a nit comb to brush them out.
For the eyebrows / eye lashes, you should use medical grade Vaseline mixed permethrin.

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Mosquitoes & Malaria.
Note malaria is growing more resistant to the common treatments.

One bite is all it can take. Keep clear of stagnant water, ditches, or anywhere that standing water gathers.

You have five defenses.
1. Use the strongest DEET based insect repellent you can find
2. Keep covered up
3. Rest under a mosquito net.
4. Use chemical smoke to deter them, like “Tiger Coils” which are impregnated with Metofluthrin.
5. Use light discipline at night. Lights attract bugs!

Head for the countryside!

The UK forums discussion of where everyone is going to Bug Out to and what the ideal Bug Out Vehicle (BOV) is makes for amusing reading.

Yet when you try and pin an individual down, ask for them to put up a realistic plan for scrutiny, it all goes quiet. It’s nothing to do with OPSEC or anything like that though (although some will claim that).

It’s just an embarrassing realization that their plans haven’t been thought through.
The major ’tilt’ though is where exactly are they considering bugging out to?
We live on a tiny island 830 (ish) miles bottom left to top right with poor road, rail, and air infrastructures.
Yet the forum sheeple say they’ll head for either “The center of England”, “the countryside”, or “high ground”.
Looking at their wishes, you’ll find an interesting choice of locations.

Center of England
On the UK mainland the generally accepted center of England is disputed between Lillington to the west of Coventry and the Midland Oak, near Leamington Spar.

Or, the furthest point away from the sea, is at Coton in the Elms, South Derbyshire.
They are all approximately 80-100 meters above sea level (ASL).
All three of them are 80-85 miles from the sea.
Wow, impressive (not).

High Ground comes next.
The highest point in the UK is Ben Nevis at 1343m.
The lowest point is The Fens at -4m.

Distance from the center to Ben Nevis is 400 (ish) miles.
Nearly 8 hours drive assuming you can get there.

As you can see, the majority of the UK is under 250m ASL.
One major global shift of sea level and most of the UK has gone.

Me, I’m looking for bugging out to a BOAT!

The Countryside.
Difficult to map this one but I’ve tried.
Simple mapping, White is low population, the redder the more.

It’s not exactly easy to escape from people in the UK is it?
Yet the desire is to “escape to the countryside”.

The point of this article.
Reality and fantasy in UK prepping planning is something everyone needs to acknowledge.

It’s just stupid to come out with the mantra “I’ll escape to the countryside” and “Get out of Cities because it’s safer” and not have a carefully considered plan on just what you’re going to do.
Imagine that the UK government (not known for giving good advice) tells everyone to evacuate London.
Instant gridlock on the worlds biggest parking lot the M25.

Wait for a week or so and although the roads will be jammed with abandoned vehicles (a good source of supplies and other goodies), the possibility is that there won’t be so many people.

Food For Thought.

• Perhaps, just perhaps, it’s going to be better to sit tight and wait for “the big die off” unless you can get out before an event.
• Where are you going to?
• How are you going to get there?
• What are you going to find there?
• What if you can’t get there?
• What if your beloved BOV gets stuck in a massive traffic jam, FOR EVER!
• What will you carry on your road trip especially if you end up on foot.

My Personal Plans

Why on earth would I divulge those. I’ve got to be mad!
Yet am I? Who exactly am I trying to evade and protect myself from?
The authorities already know where I live, my family does, my neighbours do.
Plus I’m not exactly divulging anything!!!

My personal plan is to stay put if I can until I can’t.
I’m under no illusion that I’ll be perfectly safe at home.
It’s just that there is no where safe to go to.
Once outside there is no protection on the streets and
Eventually I’ll end up on foot, just like everyone else.

Ha Ha, and you thought I’d go into detail.

Injections

There may be occasion where you need to give someone or even yourself an injection.
It’s actually very easy except for the psychological fear of injecting yourself.
Don’t inject into a blood vessel!!!

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How to give an IM injection (Into muscle)

1. Assemble all the supplies you’ll need: the medication to be given, syringe and needle (usually 20g or 22g, and 1 1/2″ long), alcohol prep pad, gauze, band-aid.
2. Wash your hands.
3. Prepare, or mix the medication according to your instructions and draw the medication into the syringe.
4. Attach a new needle to the syringe.
5. Gently flick the barrel of the syringe will help to loosen any trapped air and gradually press the plunger in to expel any trapped air.
6. You’ll be giving this medication into the muscle in the buttock, so have the person getting the medication lower their pants slightly and lie down on their stomach.
7. Divide one buttock into quadrants. You will always want to give the injection in the outer, upper quadrant, almost toward the hip.
8. Select the site: It should be free of scars or bumps.
9. Clean the site with an alcohol pad and allow to dry. Do not blow on it or fan the site to quicken the drying process. That just pushes the bacteria back onto the site.
10. Spread the skin with your fingers and inject the needle straight down in a dart-like motion all the way.
11. Pull back on the plunger a little. If you see blood enter the syringe, pull the needle out a little and inject the medication. If you do not see blood, simply inject.
12. Pull the needle out and dispose of properly in a sharps container. Do not put medical or sharp waste in the regular garbage.
13. Use the gauze to dab up any blood, if necessary, and cover with a bandage or plaster.
14. Wash your hands.

Tips:

1. Apply ice onto the site to numb the area just prior to cleaning it.
2. Have the patient relax their buttock. Tension in the muscle makes the injection more painful.
3. Massage the area afterwards to enhance absorption of the medication.
4. After drawing up the medication, change the needle. The sharper the needle is, the less painful the injection will be.
5. Hold the syringe by the barrel and not the plunger. Keeping a finger on the plunger may cause you to inadvertently push the plunger before the needle is entirely in the tissue. This can help prevent you from wasting medication.

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How to Give a SC Injection (Under the skin)

Here’s How:

1. Gather your supplies. You will need an alcohol pad, bandage, and your prepared or mixed medication.
2. Wash your hands.
3. Assemble all the supplies you’ll need: the medication to be given, syringe and needle (usually 25g or 30g, and 1 1/2″ long), alcohol prep pad, gauze, band-aid.
4. Wash your hands.
5. Prepare, or mix the medication according to your instructions and draw the medication into the syringe.
6. Attach a new needle to the syringe.
7. Gently flick the barrel of the syringe will help to loosen any trapped air and gradually press the plunger in to expel any trapped air.
8. Select your site and clean it using the alcohol pad.
9. Take a large pinch of skin at least 2 inches to pull the fatty tissue away from the muscle underneath it.
10. Holding the pen or syringe like a dart, quickly insert the needle at a 90 degree angle to the skin.
    Note:- If you can only pull back an inch of skin, inject at 45 degrees
11. Slowly inject the medication.
12. Release the pinch of skin, then withdraw the needle.
13. Apply bandage or gauze as necessary.

Tips:

1. Make sure to change your site each time you give the injection. Move from thigh to thigh or change locations on the abdomen.
2. If you are nervous about the pain of needle insertion, numb the area with a little ice prior to cleaning it.
3. You may notice a little bead of medication or a drop of blood. This is normal.
4. Insert the needle quickly. If you go too slowly, the injection will be more painful.

Lethal Force UK

UK law is indistinct on how, why, if, and when, you are allowed to use lethal force.
This was copied from the UK CPS site as a memory-aid for me.

http://www.cps.gov.uk/publications/prosecution/householders.html Does the law protect me? What is ‘reasonable force’? Anyone can use reasonable force to protect themselves or others, or to carry out an arrest or to prevent crime. You are not expected to make fine judgements over the level of force you use in the heat of the moment.So long as you only do what you honestly and instinctively believe is necessary in the heat of the moment, that would be the strongest evidence of you acting lawfully and in self defence. This is still the case if you use something to hand as a weapon. As a general rule, the more extreme the circumstances and the fear felt, the more force you can lawfully use in self-defence.Do I have to wait to be attacked? No, not if you are in your own home and in fear for yourself or others. In those circumstances the law does not require you to wait to be attacked before using defensive force yourself.What if the intruder dies? If you have acted in reasonable self-defence, as described above, and the intruder dies you will still have acted lawfully. Indeed, there are several such cases where the householder has not been prosecuted. However, if, for example: having knocked someone unconscious, you then decided to further hurt or kill them to punish them; or you knew of an intended intruder and set a trap to hurt or to kill them rather than involve the police, you would be acting with very excessive and gratuitous force and could be prosecuted.   What if I chase them as they run off? This situation is different as you are no longer acting in self-defence and so the same degree of force may not be reasonable. However, you are still allowed to use reasonable force to recover your property and make a citizen’s arrest. You should consider your own safety and, for example, whether the police have been called. A rugby tackle or a single blow would probably be reasonable. Acting out of malice and revenge with the intent of inflicting punishment through injury or death would not.

Having printed that, if the Rule of Law has collapsed, your assailant may know that and in my mind any restraint is unnecessary.

These are my personal thoughts on the decision 

on whether to use a weapon in self-defence.

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Why would you want to shoot or use lethal force on another someone?
Your probably not a murderer, just trying to stay alive, but is that enough reason to use lethal force?

Think about the following before using a weapon.
Do you have any way of defusing the situation or escaping that doesn’t endanger your life?
If YES then the use of lethal force may be unjustified.
If NO then determine whether or not you are justified in using your weapon.

All of the three points listed below need to be met before you can use a weapon.
1. Is the person demonstrating to you by their language, actions, and behaviour that they intend to severely hurt or kill you?
2. Are they are armed with a weapon or are physically capable of overpowering you?
3. Are they in a position to carry out an attack on you. i.e. in the same space as you with no barriers between you and them.

If all conditions are met you are probably OK to engage.

Do you need to give a warning?
If warning a person reduces your tactical advantage, I’d say no. The element of surprise is priceless.
Yet sometimes the mere threat of lethal force can be enough to make the assailant withdraw. On the negative side, it can also rapidly escalate a situation and cause instant hostile reaction from the assailant.

It’s a judgement call that boils down to whether you think you have time to SAFELY make and interpret the response to a warning.

Remember lethal force is not justified in law to protect property.
Lethal force may be used to protect your life and / or the life of others.

You decide to engage.
Keep shooting until the threat has been neutralised, preferably dead.
Remember a wounded person can still shoot back.
A wounded person can make up any tale they want and you then become the villain.
No matter what the CPS says, the UK authorities are always on the side of the criminal.

How many shots?
Keep going until the threat is neutralised BUT putting a safety bullet in their head isn’t allowed.
Forensics can tell if you have done this.
If they are running away, stop shooting. 
The threat has been neutralised.
NEVER pursue a fleeing assailant. 
You chasing them is no longer self defence.

Then, when you have finished, reload. There may be others.
Ensure that the facts fit the scene and get your story right.
Then call the authorities or, if the rule of law has collapsed, carry out disposal of the cadaver.
When the authorities arrive expect to be arrested and to surrender your weapon.
Give your basic details and demand legal representation.
Do not give a statement without representation present no matter what is said by the authorities.

Where to aim?
In a stressful situation, it’s probably best to aim central mass BUT don’t expect a quick one shot kill. Keep going until the threat is neutralised.
A bullets ability to do damage depends on what it hits.

In order of effectiveness:-

Instant: Destroy Brain or Brain-stem  
Remember though that the skull is stronger than you might think. 
Shots can glance off it.
The easiest portals into the brain is via the eyes.
The brain stem is a VERY small area to hit.

Instant: Causes massive hydrostatic shock. (Cranial and circulation shock)
F.M.J. bullets rip and tear. You need high velocity hollow points to effect great shock.
If a person is high on drugs like PCP or heroin, this can slow if not stop instant shock

10-15 secs: If it stops the blood flowing to the brain (Stop heart, sever neck blood vessels) The brain and body keeps working during this time.

30 seconds: Stops respiration (Lungs, shock to sympathetic nervous system)
Brain and body keeps working during this time.

Undetermined: Massive blood loss

The assailant needs to lose at least 2 pints of blood, and all this time their body is functional.

Indefinite: Breaks major bones especially the spine (Thigh bones, lower or upper spine)

It may incapacitate, it may not kill, it won’t stop them using a weapon like a gun.

Trust and a crisis

Just who do you trust, I mean with your life?

It’s not an extreme hypothetical question but one that needs to be considered.

I drew up this short list of people and why you should think twice about letting them in your life come a life threatening crisis.

 

The Government.
Anybody think they have your best interests at heart, I mean ANYONE?

After all preppers and survivalists are classified as domestic terrorists in some oppressed countries.

If it’s a CBRN event, civil disturbance, or even war then they could invoke a wide range of measures to curtail freedom of movement and the use of communications.

They may impose martial law and bring in military support.
 

From that second on, your individual rights are gone.

 

The police / military.
They should be concerned with your safety BUT may be under orders from a higher authority with another agenda. 

These orders may be contrary to your survival plans though i.e.

You could be ordered to leave your home thus all your supplies, preparations, and procedures will be defeated.

They could force you onto buses with just what you carry.
One overnight bag with things like BOB bags “taking up too much room”.

If you offer to use your transport, they may not permit that.

They could have your name as owning weapons or radios and be carrying out a sweep of all your armaments and equipment.

As said above, prepping and survivalism may put you into the same class as a domestic terrorist.

 

Family.
How many of you have a family who shares your philosophy of prepping and survival?
I’d be surprised if anyone has the whole of their immediate (let alone the extended) family on board. 

Yet, come a crisis, the unprepared will remember you exist. 

This brings you a few extra problems.

Extra numbers to house and feed.

The attention that arrivals at your location may bring.

The problems of them bringing in CBRN contamination and 

The possibility of them (not being trained) breaking your safety and security protocols.

What happens if they bring pets?

What happens if they turn up with their friends?

 

Neighbours and Friends.
If they didn’t know you were a prepper, they soon will.
The friendly banter will take on new dimension as they DEMAND a share of your supplies, shelter, or even your protection.

Then, as any sensible survivalist would, you will deny them anything.

What do you think would be their reaction?

Do you honestly think they will simply go away?
You may have to warn them off with a show of force.
At worst, your first kill could be a family friend

If they do leave, how do you know they won’t be back?

They could come back CBRN contaminated.

They could come back armed, and they may not return alone.

Or they could (out of spite) advertise your presence to others or the authorities. 

Thus you may become a member of a growing list of newly discovered 7-11’s just waiting to be looted.

 

So what about your partner or immediate family?
I’d like to think you could trust everyone but the bigger the family unit, the more complications could exist.

Take your prepping plans.

Could one of your family members discussed what you have done, what you have, what your plans are? (Bar stool, hairdresser, canteen, or school yard talk)

Would they just have told their friends?

After all people have a habit of remembering things you’d rather they had forgotten.

 

In conclusion,

There’s only one sensible approach

to assessing trust

DON’T TRUST ANYONE.

 

 

Self Defense

If the rule of law collapses, things can change from good to bad within hours.

The problem is not many of us have experienced the gut curdling fear and dynamics of a full on riot.
Training in the forces has helped me but without the resources and support I used to enjoy, security and safety of myself and my partner is down to me.

You cannot rely on the authorities in a time of crisis especially in the UK. 
Time and again they have proved inadequate in response seemingly content to take the verbal abuse after the event than actually dealing with trouble as it occurs.

The UK police have a poor reputation of armed response.
They kill more unarmed civilians than they help. 

They overreact almost every time. Their training is poor, their mentality gung ho, and when you see them with drawn weapons, you can almost see the red mist in their eyes, shaky hands, and sweaty top lips of nervous hyped up poorly trained personnel.

So how far do you need to go when protecting yourself?
Easy to write, difficult to accept and morally upsetting, the answer is as far as it takes to survive.  

In short if the rule of law has collapsed, you may need to kill to survive.

The problem is HOW to defend yourself.
Riots in the US saw shop owners standing in front of their livelihoods shooting at looters. 
States also saw looters shot when attempting home invasion.

In the UK we have not got that luxury of carrying firearms.

You can own a shotgun, rarely a long arm, occasionally a black powder pistol.
Licensing is erratic, seemingly random and has been proven to arm the mentally unstable whilst “normal” persons are prevented from access to weapons.
It’s an absolute mess.

The problem is criminals and gangs seem to acquire arms freely so in the UK there is a greater chance of being shot than some more “third world” or “volatile” countries.

So what’s left?
The UK prepping world has a love affair going on with the crossbow and the archery bow. 
The reason is that they are currently unlicensed, fairly powerful, and easy to obtain. 
Both look lethal and in the right hands are BUT for rapid fire, close contact situations, they are woefully inadequate.
Slingshots and airguns? 
As an area denial weapon they are handy but against bricks or above, useless.
Airguns are usually of limited power. 12 Ft Lbs with a non FAC level rifle is enough to kill a pigeon or rabbit but against a human, you need a really good level of marksmanship to hit a persons vital areas i.e. eyes, and throat blood vessels.
Air Pistols are reduced to contact weapons only having been limited to 6 Ft lbs.
You stand more chance stopping a person by using it as a baton or cosh than shooting at someone.

Finally, in the UK you can’t even carry aerosol protection like mace or pepper spray.

As for close contact fighting, knives are the usual carry for today’s teenager in the UK despite so called “stringent laws” on their carry. 

Besides, everyone gets hurt in a knife fight and a kid with a “Stanley knife” happily aims for your femoral arteries as even if you are wearing a stab vest these are extremely vulnerable. 
Besides close contact fighting is daft unless you have a long reach weapon like a machete, pike, or projectile weapon. 

We are truly a nation of victims 

waiting for a place to happen.

The balance of power is definitely 

on the side of the criminal.

 What do I advocate? A simple set of rules to follow:-

1. Where possible don’t engage in a fight.
2. Never let a person get close to you.
3. NEVER GO DOWN. Once on the floor you’re dead.
4. Always carry and be able to use a long reach weapon.
5. Only leave one side to the explanation of what happened YOURS.

Choice of long reach items.

• Walking Stick,
• Crutch, or a
• Hardened Umbrella

Less covert, requires explanation, but capable of lethal force, would be something like an Entrenching Tool, and a long reach telescoping baton.

The worse choices of weapons are close range items like:-
Knives, machetes, short batons, or contact tasers.

The poorest weapons are sprays or contact weapons like Pepper Spray, Mace, and contact or projectile Tasers.
Although contact tasers are effective, they are contact weapons i.e. you have to be within arms reach.
When using projectile tasers you have to reload between shots.
Both pepper spray and mace can be ineffective or low speed in operation.
Finally for the followers of unarmed combat i.e. Krag Mava, Karate, etc.

If you are close enough to engage hand to hand with an enemy, 
they are close enough to engage with you.

It’s stupid to fight open handed or put yourself in a position where someone can “damage you”.
This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t learn a bit of self defence but learn a system that doesn’t require years of training and conditioning.
You need results NOW not in 6 months time.

You could do worse than get a copy of “Get Tough” and “Hands Off” By Captain WE Fairbairn.

Written in the 1940’s they are still the definitive guides to unarmed combat that works.

To Take Or Not To Take

When or even would you take aid if it was offered to you?

Scenario:-
An event has happened, you’ve coped really well, no problems for you, total vindication in your prepping plans a complete and utter success.
Yippee even!!!!!!!!!!

Sat at home, warm, snug, loads of supplies, even got some cash, and there’s a knock on the door.
Totally above board, no con, genuine, no tricks.
Some government type says “I’ve got food parcels, fuel if you want it, and shelter if you need it.”

Apart from the chances of this happening being less than ZERO,
if it did would you take what’s offered or smugly sit there content with your own prepping?

After all wouldn’t there be someone more “deserving” or needy than you?

Thinking purely gray man persona (which has become almost a mantra among the prepping and survivalist world) telling someone handing out supplies that you have enough, on a special diet, it’s Lent, or some other reason NOT to take supplies has just drawn attention to themselves.

On the other hand, demanding more, pleading openly because of a special need, raving about inequality, in the open, loudly, just goes to reinforce your sheeple persona. Thus you become one of many not a man apart.

It’s much like helping others with supplies or taking a waif or stray in. You help, you obviously have an excess.
The other more worrying interpretation of your actions is that you come across as weak.
Compassion in an urban environment especially inner cities is often taken as weakness just as saying sorry is, politeness, and kindness.

If you are seen to be acting morally and compassionately by the wrong person or someone repeats what they saw in the wrong place, you become the local 7-11 to be raided, looted, or invaded.

Thus being an out and out bastard in a survival situation is probably the best persona of all.