Dealing with gangs

Firstly and obviously, your Gray Man persona and your street awareness drills “should” keep you out of harms way.
Remember it’s better to be a live coward than a dead hero.
The problem is it might not be enough.

The Gray Man persona also can bring out the worst in adversaries who think you are a wimp, a coward, or just plain weak.
Once a gang notices you, there may be little choice but to react to their attention.

The standard make up of any gang is a leader, normally the loud mouth (but watch for the quiet one in the background whispering orders), one or two subordinates, and the hangers on.

The UK problem children called CHAV’s. (Council Housed and Violent)
These are pack animals, unintelligent, no honor, or respect for others.
Truly feral and highly dangerous.
Fight one CHAV and all of the group will join in.
Whatever you do with CHAV’s, you must be brutally aggressive causing the maximum damage in the minimum at time.

ANY aggression calls for a degree of fitness and agility and you should seek training before being put in a position where you have to ATTACK.

IMMEDIATE ACTIONS
Put the leader of the group or gang down first
FAST, EFFICIENTLY, BRUTALLY, showing NO MERCY.
NOW QUICKLY move onto the subordinates.
PHYSICALLY advance on them and put them down too.
Once you have done that, make eye contact with each person left promise them harm and advance towards each of them.
If anyone reacts, attack.

You need to make everyone fear you more than their esteemed leader and immediate subordinates so, by initially acting violently and systematically, it normally makes the hangers on fade away.

Whilst you are dealing with the subordinates, keep an eye on the downed leader.
If they try to get up, attack them again.
Keeping them down is PRICELESS PSYCHOLOGICALLY.
It declares you are SOMEONE TO FEAR.

Even if dealing with one person, also act decisively.
Forget fancy THINK EFFECTIVE and the most positive result you can hope for is that they are QUICKLY incapacitated and you can walk away unscathed.

Some Thoughts on attack.

• Heel of Hand to the CHIN:- Acts like whip lash if done hard, it disorientates and stuns
• Stick Attack to the KNEES:- If they cannot stand or walk, they can’t pursue you.
• Slap both EARS:- If they cannot balance or think, they cannot respond effectively.
• Kick or Knee the BALLS:- If they can’t breed after that, It’s no great loss to humanity.
• Gouge their EYES:- If they can’t see, you can escape.
• Strike the THROAT:- If they can’t breathe, they can’t attack

Why the deepening Red?
Eyes are irreplaceable, Asphyxiation could cause death

Blisters

Christmas Shopping, only at Aldi, and I came back with a blister on my heel.

Daft thing to happen but there you go. The hazards of supermarkets.

Here’s what I do when I get a REALLY bad blister.

Don’t open blisters i.e. cut it.

 Even with a hypodermic needle, you’ll drain it, walk on it, and it’ll fill up again.

I use a technique I read on the Internet which works a treat.

You need:-
adhesive tape
Alcohol for swabbing (isopropyl) or surgical spirit
Sewing needle
Dressing Scissors
Sterilized thread (Best to use a synthetic thread like polyester).
Sterile gauze squares
Tooth pick or match stick with head removed.

Sterilizing, the easy way.

Wash your hands.

Pop a length of thread in the kettle wound round a needle and a CLEAN tooth pick and boil it.

Fish the thread out (Not with your fingers) and let it stand to cool using the rest of the water for important things i.e. making a cup of tea.

Wash your hands again, and thread the needle.

You only need 3-4 inches of thread.

Push the needle and thread through the blister after cleaning the blister with alcohol.

Remove the needle leaving the thread sticking out of each end and cover it with a gauze pad.

The blister drains slowly but gently. So clean socks on, slippers, and hobble round a bit. I normally leave it over night but no longer though.

Once drained, a good swab with alcohol finishes the job and you can gently pull out the thread.

New gauze pad and on me it heals really quickly.

No raw skin to worry about.

EMP / Geo-Magnetic Storms

If I hear one more time about an EMP pulse wiping out the whole of humanity, I think I’ll scream.

It may knock off our electrical supply and that might make a few Nuclear “Accidents” happen, but for everyone to just drop dead is a step too far.

Sometimes I really despair about what these doomsday lot predict.

Here is my take on the phenomenons.

An EMP pulse is an EXTREMELY POWERFUL wide band burst of radio waves.

Usually generated by nuclear explosions it can also be caused by the sun.

There are some non nuclear devices that can generate similar results.

It hurts things by inducing high voltages WAY OVER the working limits of the equipment.

An EMP pulse is VERY short duration. Seconds rather than minutes.

EMP can “hurt things” if:-

• It’s an electrical or electronic design,
• It’s switched on or off,
• Connected to power or not,
• Assembled or in it’s separate parts,
• If it is outside a Faraday cage.

A Faraday cage is a metal box, all parts are bonded together, no holes.
It doesn’t have to be “special metal”, heavy, or expensive.
A metal ammo box or metal biscuit tin is good enough.

Some have even run tests on using a microwave oven.Problem for me there is my mobile phone still rings so something is getting in.

Line it with a non conductive material like polystyrene sheet.
Everything placed inside should be in it’s own conductive bag
i.e. Mylar bag, anti-static bag, or just wrapped in silver foil.

There is no need to bury or Earth this box.

Geo-Magnetic storms ARE NOT THE SAME AS AN EMP.

These induce high voltages in LONG wires like pylons, telephone wires, and aerials.

This is what kills power distribution and long distance communications.

Simply disconnecting equipment from aerials and power outlets is enough to protect against Geo-magnetic Storms.

These storms can last for hours if not days.

However as any large metal structures MAY become VERY electrically charged and start to arc and spark, prudence says to put your “home based gear” into a Faraday cage for the duration of the storm.

A Faraday cage will NOT protect sensitive equipment from strong magnetic forces.

Some electronic compasses have VERY sensitive magnetic devices in them.

It will effect the Earths magnetic field, that could cause problems with navigation.

Long range radio communication including land line telephones can be affected by these storms. Remember even if an underground cable is fiber optic, it eventually connects to something on the end of a wire and the longer that wire is, the more potential there is for disruption.

You can use mobile radio equipment for communicating i.e. handhelds and car radios BUT they may be swamped with naturally generated noise i.e. static, whistling, low frequency “rumbles”.

Survival Fishing

This is about catching fish as FOOD.

There are a few points to watch though.

CBRN contamination will probably affect water courses 

i.e. fish swim in CBRN soup, you eat fish, you get contaminated. 

It does not matter if you are sea or fresh water fishing, 

CBRN is an important reason NOT to fish.

Bait. The best bait is fresh bait.

OK, if you are fishing for eels you can happily bait a crewel, eel cage, or Hessian sack with a road kill rabbit but for everything else, live or at least fresh is best.

A simple two plastic bottle minnow or small fry trap is very easy to make.

The picture should be enough detail.

The ties are thread or thin wire. Bait it with waste food or worms. The neck hole is used to thread a retrieve line, the other holes keep a flow of water through the bottle. Make all the holes with a heated nail or hot wire. Water flow too much? Add a few stones.

Don’t stop using the minnow bottle because you have enough bait though, get a handful of small fry and they can make a nice snack or be used as bait for birds.

Nothing live? Use coloured wool, silver foil or shiny earrings. In short anything glittery, bright, small, and moving erratically can be used to attract fish.

 Although I’m talking about using hooks and line, NOTHING brings up fish as fast as a grenade, pipe bomb, or a couple of thunder flashes wrapped round with gaffer tape to increase the ‘bang’.

The basic idea of fishing is to put a baited hook into the water, fish eats the bait and hook. It doesn’t matter if you are using barbed hooks or not, if the fish swallows the hook, they will be caught.

So (ignoring UK Law) It follows that the more hooks you put into the water, the more chance you have of catching fish.

Long Line Fishing

Make a long line with hooks a couple of feet (60 cm) apart.
Hook sizes. Little hooks catch anything, Big hooks only catch big fish.

Then attach a single weight to one end and throw it in . I found that 5 hooks is pushing the personal safety bit.

Or, you could fix the line at one end and pull it across the stream or pond.

Trailing lines should be staggered, 30 to 60 cm long, 60 cm apart to stop tangles. Bait is anything that wiggles i.e. worms or waste bread paste or animal innards.

Keep the hooks small as a small hook will catch any size of fish when a large hook only catches large fish.

CAUTION this type of fishing is illegal in the UK

Snagging

Snagging is a technique that works and that is where you dangle a bait in the water but hanging loose round the bait is a few unbaited hooks.

The idea is that the fish approaches the bait and a sudden jerk of the line causes one or more of the hooks to dig into the fishes sides effectively “snagging” the fish.

I use triple hooks and the unbaited hooks are on longer traces than the bait. Typically 30 cm longer. This rig is good for sea work and larger freshwater fish like perch and pike.

It is VERY aggressive and most fish will fight hard so always wear gloves when using a hand line.

CAUTION this type of fishing is illegal in the UK 

Catching Eels

They move into bays and estuaries in late spring and begin the journey upstream into rivers moving mainly by night under the moon.

UK Eels in fresh water are known as yellow or brown eels.

In the summer they feed worms, small fish, dead fish, molluscs, carrion, and other bottom-living bugs.

In winter become less active if at all.

They love carrion so make a simple cage with wire with a neck like the minnow trap by about 2 inches across or just use a sack with a 2 inch hole at the neck with a dead rabbit or any guts and entrails inside. Leave in a shady location.

Pull out the sack in the early morning QUICKLY.

CAUTION

As they eat carrion and basically any other rubbish, they are open to all sorts of contamination and worm infestations.

So don’t eat them in a CBRN event or for a season afterwards.

Other “Fishy” Dishes

• Common Cockle.
  Found in sandy bays and estuaries all around England.
• Common Mussel.
  Found everywhere on rocky shores attached to rock surfaces.
• The Edible Crab.
  Found in rock pools all around the English coastline. approx 15 cm wide. It’s reddish-brown in colour.
• Freshwater Crayfish.
  Found in freshwater rivers, shallow rocky streams with lots of plant life, lakes, canals, water-filled quarries and reservoirs.
• European Lobster.
  Found on the south, south-west and north-east coasts of England.
  It has a dark blue shell with yellow spots and a yellow-toned underside.
• Edible Oyster.
  Found in shallow waters on solid mud, muddy sand, gravel and rocks.
  Not common in the east and north-east.

Cleaning Fish

CAUTION. If the skin of the fish smells funny, looks unhealthy, or diseased, discard the fish.

Finding a dead fish or multiple fish floating on the surface is not a free meal. Something killed them so eating them or even using them as bait is a strict NO NO.

Round fish include fish such as mackerel and sea bass. Some need scaling to remove the hard inedible “skin”.

Holding the fish by the tail, scrape the blade in short, sharp bursts against the grain of the scales and back again, working the knife from the tail to the head.

Rinse the fish in clean boiled water.

Slice the length of the belly of the fish and pull the guts from it, cutting them out at the top.

Cut the head and tail off.

Run cold water over the fish and inside the belly cavity to clean thoroughly.

Check the internal organs for signs of disease and the flesh for signs of worms.

Preparing eels

Caution: Bottom and carrion feeders. Any CBRN is going to be in this ones diet.

The simplest method of killing eels is to put them in a deep can and douse them with salt.

Leave them for a couple of hours to kill them.

This will help clean off the slime.

They should not need to be completely buried in salt, a good sprinkling is sufficient.

Wash thoroughly in clean boiled water and carefully scrape all the slime off.

Gut the washed eels, taking care to slit the belly 25 mm or so beyond the vent in order to remove the kidney. DON’T eat the liver.

Scrub and wash the gut cavity removing all traces of blood from the backbone and throat.

Unless you are going to use the guts as bait, bury them deeply or throw them back into the water.

Trapping Birds

It’s very important to point out that catching

any wildlife in the UK is STRICTLY LIMITED

and there are loads of laws
protecting birds and banning your activities.

What follows is general information

and for illustration only which

you could use in a pure survival situation.

I DO NOT CONDONE YOU USING ANY OF 

THE ILLEGAL TECHNIQUES LISTED BELOW.

Duty done, legal bit covered.

You get caught, serve you right.
Poor OPSEC on your part.

---

Once again, shooting is too labor intensive in a survival situation.

I’m talking gain for effort and remind you that trapping is basically a force multiplier i.e. you set up traps, go back to base, and get on with the important jobs.

The difference is most birds are caught during the day yet they won’t take to you constantly checking traps. Just leave things alone.
Set bird traps when you are coming back from your other trap lines, and check them late afternoon before you go out to re-set your animal snares.

Bird Snares are used for anything, large or small.
As they can’t chew through lines, you can use thin mono-filament line or inner cores from para-cord.

Typically claw snares are 2″ in diameter and set an inch above the perch.
If you are after wading or swimming birds, then set 3″ in diameter, same height. Neck snares are typically 3″ in diameter, overlapped.

Gorges are designed with the “gobbling” type of birds.
Flock eaters or swooping types i.e. gulls (although gulls don’t make good safe eating as they eat ANYTHING).

Gorges In Use

1. Split some para-cord down to thin thread or use thin fishing line. Thread a few berries onto the line. Flocking birds will rapidly swallow the food to prevent the other birds from getting to it. Let them eat as much as they can then run towards them. The swallowed line will prevent them from escaping. Grab and dispatch before they can pull the line out of their crops.
2. Same principle but using small fish hooks at the end of threads baited with berries, maggots, or worm. Bird swallows the hook and cannot escape. CAUTION: the hook will be well embedded in the crop. Be careful when removing it as it will be contaminated with part digested food.

A more proactive type.
25-35 mm long, 4 mm thick on a leader of mono-filament.

Using a gorge, bait as shown above and throw out to swooping feeders like gulls. The gull will greedily swallow the gorge.
When it tries to fly off, the gorge turns sideways and locks in the throat.
Again, when recovering the gorge, take care as it may be contaminated with partly digested food.
You can of course use fish hooks like gorges.

Don’t forget mouse and rat traps.
Simply put, standard snap rat traps are useful for catching birds.
Bait with offal, berries, worm, or maggots.
They peck, trap snaps, you get a meal.
Only remember to set the traps on a pole as you won’t like mouse or rat.

Line Snares

Small thin cord snares.

3-4 inches overlapped on a frame Arrange in a box or triangle formation round scattered seed / berries. The cord must be thin and light. Mono-filament fishing line is ideal for this. Simply a ground “bird table” covered with horizontal thin snares 1-2 ” above the table. Snares are 3″ in diameter.

Flocking birds like partridge or pigeon are a favorite prey for snares.
They see the food and dive in desperate to eat before their companions.

Perching snares.
Ideal for doves and smaller birds.
Bird lands to feed and gets entangled.

Bird Caps.

Requires a little thought and preparation.
You’ll need to collect holly twigs with leaves attached and some thin cardboard or very stiff paper.
Boil the holly in a pot and reduce the liquid down to a thick glue.
Make paper cones approximately 2″ in diameter Using the bird gum to make the cones.

Smear a generous layer of gum round the inside top edge.
Place into the ground and drop corn or other bait round and in the caps.
The bird pecks the bait and the paper cone gets stuck on its head.
It will not fly as it cannot see. Note, this one you need to monitor.

Bird caps are definitely ILLEGAL in the UK but at least you can catch the birds and release the ones you DON’T want to eat.

Other Traps. (Google “Bird Snares”)
There are loads of other trapping methods like the Ojibwa, cage traps, mist nets, etc. Whilst they may be highly effective, they are either too complicated or fiddly to fabricate, or just TOO BIG to hide.

Rifle Muzzle Damage

Gun Barrels are made of soft steel which is easily damaged.

The most common faults are caused from either physical damage or bad cleaning.

Pull throughs aka bore snakes are notorious for causing uneven wear on muzzles.

Rigid rods will cause the same wear if not used correctly.

If possible clean from the breech. You must avoid all wear at the muzzle.

Note: 

Felt cleaning pellets should not be used in a spring-piston gun. 

They do not cushion the piston sufficiently, and it is akin to dry-firing and may cause damage to the piston face.

Damage to the muzzle must be addressed on discovery.

Failure to do so will caused a pellet to ‘flip’ slightly which will cause wobble and together with the spin, the pellet will fly erratically.

Spiral gets worse with flight time (Range)

The simplest way is to use a 3/8 inch ball bearing and simple valve grinding paste.

Push a pellet into the muzzle, point towards the breech, 2-3 mm into the rifling to stop any grinding paste falling down the barrel.

Grinding Technique

Put a smear round the edge and with a simple piece of hollowed dowel, grind for a few seconds until you can see a definite clean ‘cut’ round the muzzle.

Clean the muzzle with a cotton bud and wash the ball bearing. 

Re-coat with fine grinding paste and grind to a high polish.

Thoroughly clean with cotton buds and check with a magnifying glass to ensure an even grind. Repeat process until this has been achieved.

Use a simple push rod from the breech to remove the reversed pellet.

Thoroughly clean the barrel before shooting recommences.

Once the crowning process is complete you may have to sight your gun in again. It is common for the Point of Impact to shift after the crown has been re-ground.

Depending on the initial quality of the crown you will see varying degrees of improvement.

Note muzzle crown damage can happen to all rifle barrels including firearms.

Such damage can ruin the accuracy of a 1 moa weapon in seconds.

Although this is a simple technique, I recommend taking your weapon to a PROPER gun smith not some little 7-11 gun shop who won’t possess the correct skills or equipment.

Another One Bites The Dust

P2S this time. The rumors were correct.
“Cross the wrong moderator there and you’re out” I was told.

As I said before, UK Prepping and Survival Forums are either over the top politically correct, elitist, or over moderated to destruction (not forgetting the idiots and kids).

Took me a while to work out which moderator to prod but bang on first time.
I’m getting better at this as it usually takes me 2 or 3 attempts to get banned.

Still 8 down, 15 (ish) to go.

It’s difficult to keep up with all the new forums, they seem to be growing at the rate of 1 every couple of months.

Funnily enough, you soon recognise the membership from other forums as they either drift away or get banned for some minor indiscretion.

It’s a shame as Prepping and Survival Forums should be a place for frank discussion covering a wide range of subjects.
Yet that is not the case. Well not the case in the UK.

Sometimes the practical side of Prepping and Survival are suppressed and the opportunity to learn and impart essential knowledge prevented by the canning and jam brigade.

This was the last of the UK “Pay for Elite Membership” Prepping and survivalist Forums on my hit list but I’ll keep looking out for others.

Luckily this phenomenon is a uniquely UK trait with European and especially the American forums more grown up about things.

Add the excellent Canadian forums and there is still plenty of good forums and blogs to read and contribute to.

My plea to UK Prepper and Survivalist
forum users is simple.

Mushrooms are kept in the dark and fed B.S.

Fight Over Moderation & Political Correctness
Where ever you find it.

Rabbit as Food

Rabbit Vital Statistics

34 to 50 cm in length, 1.1 to 2.5 kg

Height to chin, 15-16 cm

Height to clear the ears i.e. chin to ear tips 18-20 cm

Typically nocturnal EXCEPT in mating season which is January to June going into August if the weather is good. Feeding time Just before dusk to just before dawn.

An adult rabbit will normally stay within 200 m of the main burrow, but juveniles can move up to 4 km at the end of the breeding season.

This is the main danger time for spreading diseases between warrens.

Two thoughts on snaring.

First, you use a snare to hold the prey until you can get to it.

Most snared rabbit will (if possible) after a fight burrow into the nearest greenery and hide. Good for you as long as you remember where you left the snare. Some will struggle until choked to death (see stop on snares).

Those get VERY stressed as a ground strangle is slow. It usually leaves the rabbit in full view.

Not good as a passer-by might see it and KNOW someone is on their territory.

Bad PERSEC.

Having said that, I like to dangle and strangle. Three reasons.

1. The first is lifting things off the ground prevents them wriggling out or even biting through a snare.
2. Secondly, it lifts the corpse out of the reach of ground feeders like rats.
3. Thirdly, a quick strangle doesn’t make the meat “stressed”.
   The longer the death, the more bad chemicals are produced in the body and that affects the quality of the meat.
   OK, a minor point but eating is what it’s all about isn’t it?

These traps are easy to fabricate.

The two traps on the left are shown baited.

They can be used for squirrel, and other “munching” prey.

The batten / nail peg is something which you can set up VERY easily.

Two alongside each other make a brilliant roller trip type trap and it can be used to form part of a teeter trap.

Key rings are typically 1″ across. Bear in mind that your prey will want to escape. If it has teeth, para-cord snares can be chewed. Again, that’s why I like dangle.

Bear in mind that a rabbit may only weigh 1-2 kg BUT when struggling the force can top 5-10 kg.

There will be a time though when dangle and strangle can’t be set-up.

Now we’re talking about rabbit bouncing through fields along paths they often establish i.e. ‘beats’. We’re using snares in a different way now.

The little snare sketch shows (in cm) a typical set-up.

It might seem a bit high but the idea is to sit the snare JUST UNDER CHIN HEIGHT of a travelling rabbit and big enough TO CLEAR IT’S EARS.

Professional trappers use wire “tealers” to support snares in the right position. Nice, but not essential.

The stop 13 cm from the snares eye is a legal requirement in the UK.

It stops a strangle and just holds the prey until you arrive to dispatch it.

Average snare LENGTH is about 52-55 cm (21-22 inches).

The peg is typically 8-12 inches long.

For rabbit running along beats, they tend to lope (little hops). Thus you’ll see little “depressions” along their route.

Rabbit travel both ways along these trails or “beats”. Ignore the larger ones, they rest there, pick a straight path and not at a junction of a beat. i.e.

You must let the rabbit get up speed and blunder into the snare.

That’s all for rabbit, just a quick brief look at trapping them.

Anything will do to hold the snare, just don’t handle things in bare hands.

To put it bluntly, YOU STINK!

All humans do and your scent is the biggest “TURN OFF” ever to a cautious rabbit, squirrel, or bird. You don’t have to smoke your traps or bury them though, most snaring is done with the animal on the move. Just don’t use smelly soap on your hands before setting traps.

Shooting with an Air gun (UK limited at round 12 ft-lbs).

If you choose to shoot, remember that 40% of a rabbit is gut.

Where possible always go for the head shot.

If, and only if, you are closer than 15 yards, a straight on chest shot is permissible as it won’t affect the meat.

Finally three disease cautions.

Myxomatosis. (Virus spread by flea and ticks)

Not harmful to pets or man YET a rabbit suffering from it will be in extremely poor state and susceptible to other diseases.

Symptoms, listless, blind, swollen eyes.

RHD aka VHD.(Virus spread by flea and ticks)

Extremely toxic effect on rabbit flesh and therefore dangerous to man and pets.

Symptoms, bleeding from nose and mouth.

EXTREMELY fast kill typically within 24 hours. 98% mortality.

Basically Ebola for rabbits. It is devastating causing internal bleeding and massive tissue toxicity.

Tularemia aka rabbit flu.

Caused by bacteria.

Spread by an infected tick, deer fly or other insect, and handling infected animal carcasses.

THIS IS A MAN KILLER. 

Initial symptoms look like flu BUT include :-

sudden fever, chills, headaches, diarrhea, muscle aches, joint pain, dry cough, and progressive weakness.

This can develop into pneumonia, chest pain, bloody sputum and can have trouble breathing and even sometimes stop breathing.

Other symptoms depend on how a person was exposed bacteria.

These can include ulcers on the skin or mouth, swollen and painful lymph glands, swollen and painful eyes, and a sore throat.

Symptoms usually appear 3 to 5 days after exposure to the bacteria, but can take as long as 14 days. Wear gloves, follow tick safety procedures, use strong DEET repellents. Report symptoms to a doctor ASAP and tell show them this article.

NOTE:-
DRUG INFO FROM CDC WEBSITE.
Accuracy not confirmed.

Treatment (Preferred choices)
Streptomycin, 1 g   IM twice daily
Gentamicin, 5 mg/kg IM or IV once daily

Treatment (Alternative choices)
Doxycycline, 100 mg IV twice daily for 14-21 days
Chloramphenicol, 15 mg/kg IV 4 times daily
Ciprofloxacin, 400 mg IV twice daily for 10 days

Mass Casualty Setting and Post exposure Prophylaxis
Preferred choices:
Doxycycline, 100 mg orally twice daily
Ciprofloxacin, 500 mg orally twice daily

Darn it yet again

Deleted my media file this time.
Restored from a back up and again the formatting gone to pot.
Normal service will resume (once again) shortly.

 

Trapping

You are all probably outstanding shots yet I’m discussing trapping, why?
It’s simple really. One person with a weapon could cover a wide area if they move round a lot. Even then you could spend all day wandering round and still end up with nothing. A day lost, energy consumed, no gain.

Shooting or fishing are time-consuming and tactically dangerous as you can’t concentrate on what you are doing and watch your back.

Trapping can be likened to a force multiplier.
One person can cover a large area setting traps covertly just before dusk and reaping the rewards at dawn.

Add a respectful attitude to PERSEC, and unless someone stumbles across one of your traps, you’ve got it made.
It leaves you all day to run the camp, work for gain, anything but waste time and energy.

Remember survival is all about gain over effort and traps are all gain for little effort.

I’ll follow this introduction with four articles on squirrel, rabbit, birds, and fish.
The articles won’t cover all the options of trapping, every region has its own little tricks, and I’d recommend researching the Internet for downloads.
I like Project Gutenberg. There are some good books available for free download. Old stuff, forgotten stuff.
In a survival situation you may need to forget high-tech and think stone age.
Not forgetting my other favorite, FM 21-76.

I’ll warn you now, if you don’t like trapping or killing things, feel free to skip the articles. I would just ask one thing. What you going to eat when there are no packaged meats available and no supermarkets?

Vegetarians, vegans or whatever you call yourself need not answer.
I’m pretty sure a dandelion salad will be more to their liking anyway.